After a short drive (38 kms) from El Requeson, we arrived at the Hotel de Serinidad in Mulegé. We are camped in the parking lot - but with full hook ups. The area is a tropical date palm oasis and the name Mulegé comes for the Cochimi language meaning Large Ravine of the White Mouth, for the river here that dumps into the Sea of Cortes.
Mulegé was once a playground for rich and famous celebrities including such stars as Lucille Balle, Desi Arnez, Fred Astaire, John Wayne and Jane Mansfield (who married her 3rd husband here). They used to all stay at the Rancho Loma Linda, now abandoned and seen here below.
The stars would arrive via the private air strip, out back behind the hotel. Unfortunately the developer, Lou Federico, who thought he owned the property since he had purchased and developed the entire complex, got into an ownership dispute with the Ejido.
Years ago the majority of Mexican land was owned by a very few people. So, after the Revolution the government engaged in a land redistribution process, creating these “community land holdings - called Ejidos.” The Ejido is a group of local inhabitants, (somewhere between a communist commune and a first nations reservation in western Canada), who own and administer the land. This arrangement makes ownership, land sales and other transactions complex and unpredictable.
After several years through the judicial process, Lou Federico lost the ownership claim and the resort now stands abandoned as seen below. From the picture below,where you seen Dan standing, there is an incredible stonework feature wall that was at the time a continuous waterfall wall. How grand it must have been!
Next we were off to see the Misión Santa Rosalia de Mulegé, founded in 1705 by the Jesuit Missionaries. The original structure was replaced by the stone structure seen below in 1766. In 1768 the Franciscans replaced the Jesuits. By 1770 the Misión was virtually deserted. But in 1773 the Franciscans were replaced by the Dominicans! We have seen this trend in many of the missions in Baja, but don’t know what the underlying rationale for the changing of the guard, as it were!
On Thursday evening during Happy Hour, a bunch of motorcyclists came roaring into the hotel / campground. Sonya ran for her camera and said to them, “Line up by your bikes!”, (in her manager / boss voice). After a puzzled look on their face, they all complied.
And guess where these guys are from?
Of course, where there are small children, you find Sonya handing out balloons (globos in Spanish) and me blowing them all up.
But of course, they each get one with smiles all around!
Back on the road to Guerrero Negro - 285 km down the road - or rather up the road - as it is a big climb out of the valley! The Infierno (Hell) as it is called, has varying grades of steepness, from 6% to 12% at times. It got so steep that the transmission overheating warning light came on in the truck as we were nearing the apex. Phew, it cooled down quickly after that, but it was a close call!
Here, we are only about 150 km down the road, and landscape has changed dramatically.
Finally, we found a stretch of straight road! Woo hoo, put the hammer down (all the way to 80 kmh)!
We got into Guerrero Negro well before Happy Hour. Check out our new campground - good thing Dan made reservations!
This is just a quick overnight stop before we head to Bahia de Los Ángeles, one of the most scenic spots on Baja California.
See you there,
Paul & Sonya